November 7th 2008

9.3 miles   1,600 ft elevation change. 

A beautiful, bright clear day in San Francisco. We cross the Golden Gate Bridge driving Laura’s new R32 VW. It’s a six speed manual transmission with plenty of power so I have to sharpen my stick shift driving skills. We go up the 101 to Greenbrae and turn onto Sir Francis Drake and drive to Olema. Low speed limits (which almost everyone seems to obey) and interminable traffic signals make this a long drive but the scenery is a partial compensation. Eventually we reach the Bear Valley Trailhead, site of a previous hike, and then the Sky Trailhead. This is TrailsideKiller territory but we are safe in the knowledge that he remains on death row in San Quentin, just down the road off the 101.

Trailhead

We are dressed for the anticipated cool weather, but although the temperature is in the low sixties, the sun is very warm. There are several other cars in the parking lot, suggesting a popular and hence rewarding trail. The trailhead is at about 700 ft.

We set out towards our first landmark; Sky Camp at 1.2 miles. The trail climbs steadily uphill, and off to the right are stands of Bishop pine skeletons from the 1995 Mount Vision fire.

Bishop Pines

There are also lots of towering (live) Douglas firs along the trail. The coastal fog can be seen hovering above the ocean between the burnt bishop pines. At Sky Camp, which is primitive yet graced with a solar powered restroom, we climb a small knoll to view the ocean and the sweep of Drakes Bay to the north.

A raptor sits on a horse tethering rail providing a photo-op.

Raptor

We continue along the Inverness Ridge, through a forest of Douglas fir, and at 2.6 miles make a right turn onto the Woodward Valley trail towards the ocean. We cross a small meadow at the edge of which mist rises into the air as the warm morning sun drives moisture from the ground.

Meadow Mist

The view begins to open up with breathtaking sights to the north. We see the sweeping arc of Drakes Bay, the Point Reyes headlands and Chimney Rock. The air is really clear and the visibility is unbelievable. Behind us to the south is another sweeping view to Double Point.

Drake's Bay

We debate this as a lunch stop, but being not halfway and with the alure of the beach we push on. The trail descends to pick up the Coast Trail where we turn north. This heads inland initially to cross Santa Maria Creek by way of a bridge. The creek is flowing fairly fast but is narrow and would have been just about passable without the bridge, and with dry feet, given careful balance.

The trail heads back towards the beach and Coast Camp. We had seen what appeared to be a solitary tent from the trail above and now hear human voices for the first time. We stop for lunch at a picnic table and amuse ourselves watching the quail strutting around like miniature penguins.

Coast Camp

This is quite a large, though well spread, camp site with barbecues and bear lockers. A couple pass on the trail by way of the extensive array of bear-proof trash bins! Further down the trail we see a second tent and a group around a table also apparently indulging in lunch. A trail to the left seems to go to the beach but given the uphill journey ahead we reject this option. On our way again we quickly come to a trail beside a creek which turns out to be the real access to the beach. We go a little way down to see the view but are drawn further and reach the beach in short order.

Beach

Where the creek enters the ocean there is a patch of enormous bulbous weed resembling a dinosaur bone yard. Suddenly there are people and even a couple of dogs. Again the view, the ocean waves and the general atmosphere are memorable. But enough, we have a way to go and uphill at that.

We turn right up the Fire Lane trail. This is a moderate climb through open grassland. A lone iris graces the trailside as we ascend. Until now it has been alternately warm and cool depending on the degree of afforestation. Now we are in the open and the midday sun makes us wilt within minutes.

Climb From The Beach

Although this section is 1.1 miles with a mere 380 foot gain, we make hard work of it. At 6.5 miles we turn onto the Lagunatrail and head toward the Pt. Reyes Hostel. The scenery is different here withhills in front and low lying chaparral alongside the trail. Many vultures glide overhead watching us weary hikers! A few folks pass us heading for the beach, several with camping equipment.

Iris

Ahead we see parked cars – a trailhead with easier beach access than our chosen route. We swing right past the Clem Miller Outdoor Ed establishment and feel we are well on our way home. This is an illusion as the next 1.3 miles are uphill, often in the glare of the strong sun, and seem to be unending. The scenery is less interesting now and all we see is an occasional rabbit. Coming towards us are two horseriders whom we had seen near the start of our walk. We get a sympathetic “hello again” and we press on. There is minor encouragement from the sound of traffic but no sign of our next intersection. Finally, finally we hit the Bayviewtrail – no bay view in evidence but now encouraged and in shade we rapidly make the finally leg back to the car. It was not that strenuous really but we were fooled by the weather and our own expectations of a gentle stroll of scenic beauty. All in all a great hike with memorable views and good variety.