October 15th 2009

Distance 8.1 miles    elevation gain 2,825 ft

Other than Mt. Baldy, this is reported to be the most popular peak in the San Gabriel Mountains and should give our visitors (Dee’s sister Vanessa and her husband Keith) a real sense of the range and some great views. This is a hike that was originally scheduled for yesterday – but it rained, much to the disgust of our U.K. guests. Today we expect fair skies and the rain should have cleared the air. I had intended to approach the trailhead from the west along the Angeles Crest Highway, but it is closed due to the recent fires and we will need to go around the back of the range and then east on the Angeles Crest. I check the Caltrans website early in the morning and confirm that the 2 is indeed closed from La Canada to the Islip Saddle because of the Station Fire. Of more concern, it also reports it to be closed from Islip Saddle to 6 miles west of Big Pines by rock and mud slides. Our trailhead is 4.5 miles west of Big Pines. I check to make sure there is an alternative hike in the Wrightwood area (the Pacific Crest Trail) and decide to go for it, keeping the road update to myself.

Off we go in the morning mist on our two-hour, 125 mile drive! The traffic is reasonable and we make good time. The sun comes through and it looks like perfect weather. To us the scenery is boring, but it gives our visitors an idea of the desert terrain and the less developed side of the San Gabriels, a distinct contrast to the urban jungle on the south side.

We leave the desert floor and climb up into the mountains. Just beyond Wrightwood is a sign announcing a road closure ahead! We reach the trail  parking area at Vincent gap and right there, not ten yards beyond, the road is closed. We have just made it. I am somewhat relieved – I would have felt a real idiot if we couldn’t get in after two hours in the car!

Just made it!

Vanessa has neglected to bring hiking boots with her from England and is wearing a pair of Dee’s. These are leather and Dee has hardly worn them herself i.e. they are not broken in. Largely at my insistence she has brought a pair of trainers as back up – Keith and I each have one shoe in our packs! Off we go.

Off we go.

Our journey back from England, the pressure of our daughter’s wedding, much time spent in the car, late nights and vast amounts of alcohol are finally catching up with us. Dee gasps in the thin air and I have her lead so she can control the pace. After the first few switchbacks she sets a nice steady pace and seems to have plenty of breath available to chat with her sister! The multitude of photo-ops also ensures that we have ample time to get our breath back. I read somewhere that there are 41 switchbacks and Keith and I debate whether a zig and a zag is required to make up one switchback or, as we hope, that counts as two.

A short break.

Half Way.

The gradient is not steep but relentless with almost no respite. It is quite warm – and what did I insist we bring – hot coffee. That’s going to be as appropriate as the waterproofs I am hauling in my pack. Having said that, the coffee I have at approximately the half way point does give me a caffeine shot and I feel temporarily rejuvenated. As we progress up through the wooded mountainside past the turn to Lamel Spring (the only water source) I glance at Vanessa’s feet but decide not to tempt fate by asking if the boots are comfortable. It occurs to me that the girls, with their shorter stride, will need significantly more steps to reach our destination. This may be offset by heavier body weight (and the extra shoe) Keith and I are carrying. The trees change as we gain height and through gaps we can see the surrounding peaks and rock walls and behind us the huge expanse of this end of the Mojave Desert. At about 9,000 feet, just as my usual altitude headache starts to penetrate my skull, we reach the first of the gnarled limber pines. These are reported to be up to 2,000 years old – almost as old as we’ll feel by the time we reach the top.

The Ridge.

Then as with so many hikes in these mountains, we break out in the open on a ridge and the views immediately may the whole thing worthwhile. We can see Mt. Baldy in the near distance. At the end of the ridge we come to the Wally Waldron limber pine – a magnificent exposed specimen named after a boy scout leader.

Mt. Baldy

Here the Pacific Crest Trail branches off to Little Jimmy Spring but we make the final ascent to the 9,399 ft summit.

The Desert Floor Below.

There is a monument to Baden Powell, but it is the scenery that gains our attention – as well as the Mojave and Baldy we can see the southern end of the Sierras, Mt. San Gorgonio and San Jacinto. Nearer at hand is the Hawkins Ridge and peeping through the mist are Catalina Island and the Palos Verdes Peninsular. Cameras overheat with activity but eventually we settle down just off the peak for lunch. Several pairs of Clark’s Nutcrackers flit around the sparse trees and we linger for quite a while. First I and then Keith stroll around to take in more views.

Catalina Behind Us.

A couple of men arrive at the peak and we exchange pleasantries. As we leave we enlist their help for a group picture. It appears that one of them was on San Gorgonio a few weeks earlier at approximately the same time as me, they have been to the Brecon Beacons in Wales and were recently in the Mt. Shasta area – coincidences abound!

We descend exhilarated and rewarded. The way down is relatively uneventful but enjoyable. As we lose altitude the talk turns to dinner. I do wish people wouldn’t talk about food and drink when there is none available for miles. I will have a mirage of a cool beer before me, but  just out of reach, for the rest of the hike! We reach the car and we are all glad to take off our boots. Maybe I’ll get that beer soon!

October 11th 2009

Distance 5.5 miles    Elevation gain 900 ft.

We have Dee’s sister Vanessa, her husband Keith, and my nephew Andrew staying with us and at relatively short notice decide to do this trail. It is some years since we last hiked it and I have not done my usual homework on the route, but I take a hiking book with us. Dee has a slight ulterior motive in suggesting this trail as she wants to show Vanessa around Ojai. Andrew has a large rental car and graciously agrees to drive.

We turn off highway 33 north of Ojai on Rose Valley Road and wind our way up the mountainside before dropping down to Lion Campground. We can already see the Peidra Blanca (white stone) formation in the middle distance to the north. We reach the parking lot and spend a few minutes reading the information at the trailhead kiosk. The trailhead is well-marked but the trail appears to go east and according to the kiosk map that will take us on a trail to along Sespe Creek to Oak Flat and beyond. I am confused and do not remember this at all. It seems we should be crossing the dry bed of Sespe Creek. We search in vain for another trailhead. Andrew meanwhile takes the obvious signed trail and as we follow him it becomes apparent that this quickly veers north and crosses the creek. The old adage that if all else fails, follow the instructions applies here. In my defense it does seem that the trail has been rerouted since our last visit. In fact I believe the parking area was closed on that occasion and we had to hike in an extra mile.

Above Sespe Creek

We soon reach a signed junction indicating that we should indeed take the left fork and continue north for Piedra Blanca. It’s quite warm and we toil uphill for a little way until we reach the rocks. Vanessa is wearing a rather fetching head garment to protect herself from the sun – it reminds me a little of Yasser Arafat’s but she claims, more appropriately, to be Princess someone or other. It is very functional at any rate.

Piedra Banca

The white (sand)stone formation is very impressive – hard to believe their marine origin in this wilderness. We decide to push on leaving rock scrambling for the return.

Crossing the "stones".

We climb up and around the outcrop before descending on the back side and following Piedra Blanca Creek up the canyon. The creek side is almost lush compared to the barren rocks we have left behind. There is an occasional winter fuchsia in bloom and there is water in the creek. Unfortunately there is also plenty of poison oak!

Heading up the canyon.

Princess Vanessa

My objective is lunch at Piedra Blanca Camp, but it seems much farther than I remember. We reach a side path towards the creek and take this as I try to convince myself that this is the camp site. I’m not sure where you would pitch a tent, but there are several cans in the undergrowth! We have lunch. Not convinced that this is the camp site I suggest we continue a little farther down the main trail. I now have the bit between my teeth and am determined to find a more obvious camping area. The girls decide to wait, while Keith, Andrew and I venture on. After about another half mile we find another turn towards the creek where there are more obvious tent sites and fire rings. Satisfied we return to join Dee and Vanessa. (As it turns out we had not reached Piedra Blanca Campground as marked on the map!). We make our way back to the white rocks and enjoy a little scrambling to take in the views. Despite my lack of preparation (I could have studied the trailhead map more carefully and could have entered the Piedra Blanca camp coordinates in my GPS), we have enjoyed our visit to the Sespe Wilderness. We do stop at Ojai on the return but, this being Sunday, the majority of the shops are now closed and a couple of Dee’s favorites appear to no longer exist. We drive back through Santa Paula and Moorpark to show off the avocado and citrus groves.

September 9th 2009

Distance: 7.0 miles         Elevation Gain: 2,340 ft.

We are staying in a cottage in South Wales belonging to Deirdre’s sister. Today we are going to retrace steps from Deirdre’s childhood and our early years together. Two weeks ago I climbed the highest mountain in Southern California, and today will be the highest mountain in South Wales – slight difference in elevation; 11,499 ft versus just 2,896 ft! The Brecon Beacons are near Deirdre’s childhood home in Merthyr Tydfil and we are both delighted to have the opportunity to revisit and anxious to see how the degree of difficulty compares to the Santa Monica Mountains.

We approach from the north via the town of Brecon. This will be a route neither of us has done before. The weather is excellent and it should prove to be a great adventure. From Brecon the approach roads are very narrow and winding – I manage to drive on the left but if anyone is coming the other way passing is going to be extremely difficult. However, we arrive at the trail head unscathed. Somewhat to our surprise there are several other cars in the parking area, which was an old army camp. Even here, the green hillsides stretch before us and we join the grazing sheep as we follow a faint path across heathland. We can see the more defined trail ahead. The mountains are of red sandstone and where the path is more worn we can follow what looks like  a red brick road – the sandstone breaking away in slabs to provide a rough staircase. We start a gentle ascent up this rocky path towards a ridge, Cefn Cwm-llwch, that connects Allt Ddu on our left with Pen Y Fan out of sight ahead of us. About halfway up to the ridge we pass another couple taking a breather. Although Deirdre seems to find the climb hard we are making good progress.

The Peaks from class="hiddenSpellError" pre="from ">Cefn Cwm-llwch

 Once we reach the ridge we can see the peaks ahead. The grade is now more gentle and the views in all directions are magnificent. We can see people on Cribyn to our left and Pen Y Fan and Corn Du ahead. As we near the top, the going gets steeper and the green carpet covering overlaying the hills runs out in places almost as though nature ran out of material. The ground underfoot is broken rock, sheered off in slate like pieces. The drop offs are dramatic with the sheer cliffs dropping into deep valleys (cwms) divided by ridges. We pass another couple just before the final climb and yet another before the peak – we are going nicely!

The final ascent

Summit of Pen Y Fan

I reach the top first – 2,907 ft. There is a final scramble and there over a rock band is the cairn summit – and a dozen or more people. I take some pictures of Deirdre as she scrambles up to join me. She can pick out the reservoirs and other landmarks from her childhood memories and seems exhilarated by the experience. We enlist another walker to take a summit picture. In the near distance we can see numerous folks approaching by the shorter route from the Storey Arms to the south. Too many for us to lunch so we start down towards Corn Ddu to the west and move a little off the path out of the wind.

Summit of Corn Du

 Refreshed we complete the short climb back up to Corn Du – Pen Y Fan’s sister, though lower, peak at 2,683 ft. There are more people here too but we content ourselves with individual peak bagging poses. Below us to the north is another cwm with a cirque lake by the name of Llyn Cwm Llwch (or plink ‘n plonk as I call it, my Welsh not being too good).

class="hiddenSpellError" pre="">Llyn Cwm-Llwch and the way back

 We descend around the rim of Cwm Llwch glad of the jackets we have doned as the wind blows through here. Shortly we reach an obelisk immortalizing a small boy who went missing in 1900 and whose body was found here. Our trail branches off and we descend towards Llyn Cwm Llwch and skirt around to follow the path into the valley.

Retrospective

Here long looks backwards reward us with the profile of the two peaks. The ground underfoot is once again springy grass and we reach civilization at a cottage at Cwm-llwch. Here there is a bubbling stream and we are sorry to join a paved lane just beyond a parking area giving access to the Beacons from this direction. We now have to follow lanes back to the car and although we would otherwise find this pleasant it is a bit of a drag at the end of a great day’s outing. Back at the car we remeet two of the couples whom we have seen at various points during the day. Back to the cottage for tea and cake!

August 15th 2009

Distance: 8.3 miles.             Elevation gain: 2,100 ft.

Although the forecast is for slightly lower temperatures we again select a hike starting at the ocean. We park on Pacific Coast Highway at Leo Carrillo State Beach and risk life and limb crossing the highway to reach the pay parking lot where the trail begins. Except that we can’t seem to find the trail head and wander around the camp site. Eventually I swallow my pride and ask the ranger at the pay kiosk. He points out the trailhead, confusingly labelled as the trail to Camp 13? This appears to be a new trail with handicapped access. However, after a few yards we reach the sign for Nicholas Flat. I know we need to take the left hand trail if we are to do a loop. Of course, the trail I select turns out to be the one to Camp 13 and returns to the camp site in half a mile. Dee is not pleased. Also there is no marine layer cover today and the sun is coming out! We retrace our steps and select the correct trail which climbs steadily uphill above the very extensive (and full) campground for about a mile and 500 ft to a junction.

Finally on our (correct) way.

Dee waits while I climb a short distance to a view-point. A man descends as I ascend and at the top a couple resting, the man looking decidedly the worse for wear! I rejoin Dee and we take the left fork in the trail. We will take the right fork on our return. I watch the gentleman coming down from the view-point behind. I hope he is returning and not venturing further! The trail climbs an additional 1,100 ft in the next mile and a half. It’s not particularly hot as there is some very thin cloud cover but it is humid and Dee is struggling a little today. We rest on some rocks and refresh.

Nice spot for a break.

 She decides to struggle on. We soon come across the man I met earlier, he has removed his shirt and is also taking a break. He seems a little embarrassed and quickly puts on his shirt and after a brief exchange we allow him to go ahead. We don’t really understand what he says – must be foreign! We reach our high point and then descend into Nicholas Flat.

Descent to Nicholas Flat

There are three cyclists here who appear uncertain which way to go and keep getting in our way. We take a short cut through to the pond – plenty of water here. We usually eat lunch on a rocky outcrop that overlooks both the pond and the canyon below. We can hear voices from what sounds like a significant crowd but are surprised to find just two girls atop. I wish them good day and they ask if we have come all the way from England. In the spirit of the conversation, I reply yes, 30 years ago. We are rather slow hikers. Jokes over we relax and have lunch.

Lunch!

We skirt around the pond doing a mini loop to rejoin our trail.

The pond.

It’s much easier going down and Dee is now over her difficulties. I take a slight diversion to climb a hill. We stop at the same set of rocks as on the way up and take the alternative trail around the hill back to the car. The ocean views are good.

Aug 9th 2009

Distance: 7.7 miles          Elevation gain: 1,150 ft.

Once again it will be a hot day and so we select an ocean view hike where we hope that the ocean mist will give us protection. This hike climbs to a ridge between La Jolla Canyon and Sycamore Canyon and the first part will be the start of the Santa Monica Mountains Backbone Trail. We are in luck. Pacific Coast Highway is indeed shrouded in mist and, although this will restrict our ocean view, with luck we will complete the climbing part of our route before the sun breaks through. As usual we park on Pacific Coast Highway at La Jolla Canyon and walk in past the fee parking area to the trailhead. The Ray Miller Trail breaks off La Jolla Canyon almost immediately and we begin our ascent. Thrilled by the cool conditions Dee sets a good pace as we wind up around the hillside. We can see a pair of hikers above us and an energetic pair below closing on us quickly.

Ray Miller Trail

The view is somewhat restricted by the swirling mist but we can see the Pacific Ocean below us. At about 2.3 miles and 1,000 ft of elevation gain we turn inland and lose our ocean vista. We are overtaken by the couple from below but although the sun tries to break through a cooling breeze keeps us comfortable and we have completed most of the climb. Another half a mile of up and then down and we reach the Overlook Trail – more of a fire road than a trail. Here we catch up to the pair who were ahead of us. They have shed their backpacks and appear to be searching for something on the ground – for what we will never know! Fossils maybe – on the ground I mean, not the hikers. Here a right turn would take us along the Scenic Trail to Sycamore Canyon, but we turn right and ascend along the ridge between the two canyons.

Along the ridge.

Cloud drifts across the sun and the conditions are most pleasant. To our right the ridge falls away into Sycamore Canyon with the Boney Massif beyond. To our left is La  Jolla Canyon along which we will return. We meet a couple of other small groups, presumably doing the hike in the reverse direction, and at the high point a gaggle of cyclists laughing and shouting and generally having a good time. Too early for lunch, but we stop for a snack and to enjoy the view. As we begin our descent into the canyon we can see the Loop Trail and campground below us complete with a few hikers and cyclists. We have never actually seen anyone camp there but there are picnic tables in the shade of oak trees. We will not take this trail today but head straight back down the canyon. Just before reaching the canyon floor we leave the backbone trail. We make a sharp left onto La Jolla Canyon Trail and find a spot in the meadow for lunch. When we were here earlier in the year the chocolate lilies were stupendous. All we have today are a few gum plants in the otherwise sunburnt acres of non-native grass. After lunch we get on our way. The “pond”, where we have watched birds and seen deer come to drink in prior springs is so dry and overgrown that we almost miss it.

La Jolla Canyon.

The coreopsis, so prolific in the spring, are mere br0wn stumps as we progress through the narrowing canyon trying hard to avoid the poison oak.

The (dry) waterfall.

The waterfall is also completely dry – no happy picnickers splashing in the stream! And so back to the car. The mist has cleared and we enjoy the breeze before returning to the heat inland.

August 2nd 2009

Distance: 3.8 miles               Elevation gain: 400 ft

It’s misty and cool in Encinitas as we leave, but as we drive through Poway the skies are clear and it’s going to be hot. Today we find the trailhead without problem, but what a desolate spot it is. A cyclist returning to the parking lot is already dripping in sweat. We are to take Martha’s Grove Trail and the trail sign has the encouraging warning “Remote And Rugged Trail Ahead, Hike Or Ride With A Partner, Exercise Caution”. Wouldn’t dream of doing otherwise.

Descent to Martha's Grove

Although the trail descends to Martha’s Grove, the start is uphill. This really is a barren place. It was devastated by fire in 2003 and there is little shade until we finally desend to Martha’s Grove. This is named after a park ranger who died at an absurdly young age.

Martha's Grove

 Beyond the grove, oaks do provide some shade but this is not very enjoyable.

It's just too hot ....

 At the next trail junction we decide to cut the hike short and avoid the climb up Cardiac Hill! Instead we cross open land and head down to an old windmill. Here we turn right and head to the ranger station. This is a new building and we chat with the ranger for a while. Inside the visitors center is cool and airconditioned. We sit outside in the shade and have lunch. A junior ranger is filling a water tank with water, which, left unattended overflows. He runs down the trail to turn off the hose. Opposite us is the burnt out ruins of the former stone built house and other historic buildings. Refreshed, we set off up the road towards the car. There is some breeze now. The ranger passes us in the truck pulling the water tank. He is obviously chargeed with watering planted trees and shrubs in an attempt to revegitate the area.

The final climb.

The final pull up the hill to the parking lot is hard work and Dee is visibly wilting in the heat, but we make it and head to Poway for a milk shake and cold drink.

July 31st 2009

Distance: 5.8 miles     Elevation Gain: 160 ft

We are in Encinitas dog sitting for our son Matt and his wife Ali. Having walked the dogs, and had lunch, we set off for an afternoon walk. It’s a little humid but certainly much cooler than home and this walk will be near the ocean. However, the instructions for the trailhead in the book I have from the library are somewhere between woefully inadequate and completely wrong. After several false turns, we are about to give up when we finally come across the trailhead – not where it is listed in the book.

Trailhead

We start out through riparian woodland and are grateful for the shade. After about a quarter of a mile we come out of the trees into an area of scrubland. A side trail comes in from the left and the houses above it together with the power lines remind us that we are close to civilization.

Tern Point

The lagoon comes into view on the right and we take a diversion to a bird watching area on the edge of the water (Tern Point). There are several birds in evidence but nothing we can identify except for egrets. The view across the lagoon is somewhat spoilt by the towers of a mosque on the far side. To the north we can see a small agricultural area on the hillside complete with produce stand. Nonetheless the environs have a calming effect after our frustration at finding the trailhead and we dwell here a while before swinging round to rejoin the main path and we reach a large patch of sand spotted with ice plant.

Sandy Area

At about the mile mark we make another right turn and head north across a concrete levee. On our right is the salt marsh and on our left is freshwater marsh. The levee ends at the main road and we retrace our steps turn right and parallel the 5 freeway before crossing beneath it. We head south again parallel to the freeway for a short distance.

Sandbar and salt marsh

In a sand bar to our left are millions of shells and some pickleweed. We turn right again to head west through an area of eucalyptus and scrub. Again the pressure of civilization is apparent here but as we break out into the open we are on the edge of the West Basin and salt marsh. This is actually the most delightful part of the walk and we sit on a bench for lunch. We progress further and spend time watching a heron fish and fish jump in the water. As the trail again approaches a housing area we turn and retrace our steps. The hike has been interesting with the West Basin the highlight. If we do this again we will approach from the opposite end, bring binoculars and come when the bird migration and spring flowers will do more justice to the lagoon.

July 3rd 2009

Distance: 2.7 miles        Elevation gain: 96 ft.

We stop in Dunsmuir just south of Mt. Shasta on our way back down I5. The waterfalls are recommended in the brochures at the B&B we stayed at and the host showed us some pictures. This seems a better option than returning to the heat in Lake Shasta. We park in the lot at the railroad crossing and as advertised the trail is the railroad.

Rail roader

One can walk either alongside the rails on coarse stone or hop along the concrete rail ties themselves. I select the former as the ties are too close together for my stride length, they fit Dee just fine. She postulates that this cannot be a working line or people would not be allowed access. I assure her that it is the Union Pacific line and by way of proof we hear a rumble in the distance. Dee disappears into the bushes! I walk a little farther to a better vantage point and watch a never-ending freight train pull past.

Hear that train acoming ...

Once clear, Dee re-emerges, but now here comes a sweeper along the track! This excitement over, we continue between the line and the Sacramento River until just before a bridge we take a trail down to the falls.

Sacramento River

 There is quite a crowd here making picture taking difficult but the falls are impressive. They are fed by springs in the canyon wall, although the upper reaches are masked by vegetation. The final drop of around 50 feet into the river is dramatic but the main appeal is the width of the falls. They are made up of innumerable cascades with a total span of about 150 feet.

Mossbrea Falls

We rest a while in the shade of the trees and then return the way we came. No more trains, but we do spy some leopard lilies above the river bank.

July 2nd 2009

Distance: 10.9 miles   Elevation gain: 2165 ft

This is to be the highlight of our trip, if we can make it after yesterday’s exhausting climb in the heat to Castle Dome. Mt. Eddy is the highest peak between the Canadian and Mexican borders west of route I5. It is also the highest peak in Trinity County and we are anticipating a good show of wild flowers. We get away reasonably early and about 5 miles west of I5 take Forest Road 17 for some 10 miles to Parks Creek Pass where a large parking area marks the crossing of the Pacific Crest Trail. There are several cars parked but some appear to have been there a while presumably belonging to campers.

Pacific Crest Trail

It is in the low seventies as we set out and as we pass across a short meadow the flowers are already beautiful – flax,paintbrush and especially larkspur. The trail stays mostly level as we move into pine forest. We see the first of many deer we will encounter and something that looks ominously like bear scat! Several streams and creeks bubble down to Dead Fall Meadows below us and the flower displays just keep coming – columbine, yellow lupine and angelica. This trail is really enchanting. We know we have much elevation to gain, but the trail remains fairly flat and we speculate which of the surrounding peaks is Mt. Eddy. Unfortunately it is none of these and as the trail enters another meadow we get our first real view of our destination high above us. Still the delights of the immediate surroundings keep our attention. As we cross another stream the trail reaches a four way junction. One direction leads to Lower Dead Fall Lake. We leave the Pacific Crest Trail and join the Sisson-Callahan Trail which does finally begin to climb. But first we pass Middle Dead Fall Lake on our right and cross a marshy area where once again the flowers are outstanding, first shooting stars and then marsh marigolds and carnivorous pitcher plants.

Upper Deadfall Lake & Mt. Eddy (top right)

 Soon we reach Upper Dead Fall Lake, the trail skirting its edge. This will be a must stop on our return. Another meadow and more flowers – wild onion, buttercup and bird’s foot - and then we gain Mt. Eddy’s Pass.

Mt. Eddy Pass

 The scenery now opens up with views of the lakes below us and Trinity Alps in the near distance.

We turn off on the summit trail and now the ascent begins in real earnest. Switch-backs keep the gradient manageable but we have well over 1,000 ft to go in the remaining mile and a half. However, there is every excuse to stop to admire the incredible views and the alpine flowers beneath our feet, including pussy paws and whorled pentstemon.

The ascent

We pass patches of snow, ridiculous after the recent heat. Lake Siskiyou comes into view to the east and there are Castle Crags, subject of yesterday’s hike but now almost lost in their surroundings.

Ever upward ...

The switchbacks continue relentlessly on, but finally the peak and a glorious view of Mt. Shasta with Black Butte in the foreground. We soak in the view and enlist our only company, a younger couple who passed us on the way up, to take our picture.

The summit

 We leave them to the peak proper and walk a short way to a subsidiary cairn for rest and lunch. Out come the binoculars and, yes, we can see Lassen and its Cinder Cone on the horizon. Scott Mountains rise above the Dead Fall Lakes but while the whole 360 degrees is awe inspiring  it’s difficult to take one’s eyes off the majestic snowy slopes of Mt. Shasta just 15 crow miles away. Even here at 9,025 feet it is by no means cold but we have a long way to return and so finally take our leave.

Deadfall Lakes

The descent is much, much quicker and we mumble encouraging words to a few small groups making their way up. Going down we can enjoy the views that our upward toil denied us. 

Upper Deadfall Lake

 Back at Upper Dead Fall Lake, Dee’s attempt at a “paddle” is thwarted by large flying insects that take great delight on settling all over her. Their bodies litter the surface of the water in response to her smacks and swipes. I enjoy this until I realize that I am being consumed by a much smaller but vicious member of the insect community – I who am never bitten!

We dawdle at the marsh and take a quick side trip to view Middle Dead Fall Lake. This place is hard to leave and we splash around in the creek for a short while. We focus more on the views than the flowers on our return until we re-enter the forest. Here we meet an English couple and knowledgeably advise  them on the adventure ahead. The lady claims to have just seen a bear! She is English so we believe her, and there was that pile of bear scat! We don’t see any other evidence but I notice Dee is more hesitant in going ahead when I stop to take a picture! Back at the car we see a helicopter just across the road lifting some sort of bags on the end of a long tether. We have no idea what is happening and several minutes of watching and speculation fail to solve the mystery. This has been an outstanding hike and will live in our memories aided by the seventy or so pictures we have taken between us. Now if only I can identify the flowers!

Marsh Marigold

Scarlet Gilia

California Pitcher Plant

Sierra Shooting Star

Dwarf Larkspur

July 1st 2009

Distance 6.7 miles    Elevation gain: 2352 ft.

We are heading north on I5 to Mt. Shasta away from the heat (we hope) and stop for our planned hike to Castle Dome. It is still early and the temperature feels pleasant in the high 70s. However, the ranger at the entry point says we should expect to reach the nineties later in the day. I wish Dee hadn’t asked! We drive up to the vista point and park. The trailhead is a few yards down the road and we choose to leave the vista until our return rather than spoil the hike with a preview.

A shaded start

The trail passes through dense forest, crossing the Pacific Crest Trail after about 0.5 miles. We are climbing steadily through the trees with only hints of the views that await us. At around 1.5 miles we reach a spur to Indian Springs but decide to leave that for the return and push on as the day warms up. As we emerge from the forest we get the full view of the jagged granite crests of Castle Crags above us and there in the distance is the magnificent Mt. Shasta still wearing a ragged coat of snow and ice.

Mt. Shasta

The way now becomes steeper, rockier and more exposed. We clamber over rocks as the path climbs relentlessly upward. The views of the crags are stupendous and eventually we begin to pass between them on route to the dome which we can see still a way above. This was all formed by volcanic activity a mere 200 million years ago!

The Crags

 Dee is feeling very nauseous and tries to be sick! The effort and the heat are getting to her and we still have a way to go. We stop in the shade for a rest with an incredible view of Mt. Shasta and decide to have lunch. A couple of younger hikers whom we have met earlier on the trail reach our stopping point and assure us that the gap in the crags we see ahead really is the top – no more  than 15 minutes. Dee, now fortified by something in her stomach, seems to be over her sickness and gamely plods on.

Made it!

Finally we reach the base of Castle Dome at a saddle with an incredible drop off below. A climb to the top of the dome is for rock climbers only! The roundness of the dome is a stark contrast to the sharp spires of the crags and has a soothing influence. We make our way over to the left and find a little shade. I know we should be able to see Mt. Shasta but it is blocked by the dome. A little exploration solves the problem. From a rock just above us a small fence arrangement protects the unwary from a violent drop to the floor below, but the view of Shasta is postcard perfect. I call Dee up and out come the cameras!

The return

We stay a while and then begin our descent, taking time to enjoy the views. This time we do divert to Indian Springs. It lives up to its billing with water gurgling from several rocky outcrops. We are alone and take a wash in the cool water, most refreshing.

Leopard Lilly

I descend below the springs to a patch of leopard lilies, and see a few bog orchids on the climb back. Unfortunately we now have company and wait only to retrieve our water bottle which has been cooling in the spring. Dee gives advice to a group who are undecided on a summit bid! The afternoon is warming up significantly and we are glad our way is downhill. Though tired, we enjoy the stroll back through the forest and on gaining the car drop off our packs and take the short walk to the vista point. Here are great views of the crags and Mt. Shasta but we have seen this in more dramatic fashion. It’s into the car and head for Mt. Shasta (the town not the mountain) for a glass of celebratory wine. That was hard work but well worth the effort.